Lot Number 73. These three simple words, often found accompanying auction listings, can unlock a world of history and horological fascination. In this case, they introduce us to a specific piece: a Rolex Oyster Perpetual, reference 1023, boasting an exquisite black gilt dial – a watch that encapsulates the charm and sophistication of mid-century Rolex craftsmanship. This article delves into the specifics of the Rolex 1023 black gilt, exploring its historical context, technical features, and the enduring allure of its now-rare gilt dial.
The reference 1023 holds a significant place in Rolex history, representing a period of elegant simplicity and robust engineering. Dating back to approximately 1964, as indicated by the serial number 1136xxx (the exact year can be pinpointed with further research into the serial number database), this particular example, as described in the auction listing, is an 18ct gold gentleman's wristwatch. The "Oyster Perpetual" designation speaks to its waterproof case and self-winding movement (although the auction listing specifies a manual-wind caliber, which is unusual for this reference and requires further verification – it's possible this is an error in the listing), solidifying its position as a reliable and durable timepiece. The milled bezel, a hallmark of many vintage Rolex models, adds a subtle yet distinctive textural element to the watch's design.
However, it's the "gilt dial with dagger markers and sweep centre seconds" that truly elevates this Rolex 1023 to a collector's piece. The term "gilt" refers to the application of gold to the dial, resulting in a unique and often subtly nuanced appearance. Unlike modern dials with their consistent, even coloration, gilt dials often exhibit variations in tone and shading, adding depth and character. The aging process of these dials can result in beautiful patinas, with the gold subtly darkening or developing a warm, honey-like hue over time. This is part of the appeal for collectors; each gilt dial is unique, possessing a history etched into its surface. The "black gilt" description indicates a dark background, likely a black or very dark grey, on which the gold details stand out. The dagger markers, sharp and angular, are another distinctive feature, adding to the watch's refined aesthetic. The sweep centre seconds hand, smoothly traversing the dial, is a further testament to the quality of the movement inside.
The rarity of the black gilt dial on the reference 1023 significantly contributes to its desirability. While the reference 1023 itself is not exceptionally uncommon, the combination of the specific dial color and the overall condition of the watch makes it a sought-after piece. Many Rolex models from this era featured silver or champagne gilt dials; the black gilt variation is less frequently encountered, making it a more exclusive find for collectors. This scarcity is further amplified by the factors affecting the preservation of vintage watches, including wear and tear, accidental damage, and the inevitable effects of time.
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